Let’s talk acne
It affects most of us at some point in our lives.
It makes us feel less attractive. It can affect our confidence, our mood, and our mental health. Seeking professional advice can be one of the last things you consider and instead opt for google searches, spending hundred of £ on shop bought cosmetic products or believing hyped up marketing spiels sold to you by influencers... but more about that later.
So What is Acne?
Acne is an inflammatory skin condition that can be triggered by many factors, and whilst diet, lifestyle, medication, and cosmetics all play their role, the main factor is down to hormones and/or stress. Hormones stimulate sebum production; sebum is the natural oil produced by the sebaceous glands in our skin. These glands are particularly sensitive to hormones known as androgens, even at normal levels. Secondly, a build-up of dead skin cells. These dead skin cells mix with the sebum and get trapped in our pores. Thirdly, bacteria. In those who are prone to spots, the accumulation of oil and dead skin cells in our pores creates an ideal environment for a particular bacterium called Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) to thrive. Bacteria that causes acne thrive in sweaty, moist conditions
Acne can be present in teenagers and then clear up (I am in that category) and it can also rear its ugly head in adulthood. In fact, adult acne can affect over 50% of women (less in men due to their different hormone production)
Teen acne is due to the sebaceous follicle responding to rapid hormonal changes by producing excess oil. It manifests as lots of smallish pimples and blackhead. Adult acne is triggered by different hormones, such as testosterone and the stress hormone cortisol. It is way more inflammatory than teen acne mostly clustering around the mouth, chin, and jawline. The spots are red, large, deep, and often painful.
What does Acne look like?
Acne symptoms can vary from person to person.
There are 6 main types of spot caused by acne:
Blackheads – small black or yellowish bumps that develop on the skin; they're not filled with dirt, but are black because the inner lining of the hair follicle produces colour
Whiteheads – have a similar appearance to blackheads, but may be firmer and will not empty when squeezed
Papules – small red bumps that may feel tender or sore
Pustules – similar to papules, but have a white tip in the centre, caused by a build-up of pus.
Nodules – large hard lumps that build up beneath the surface of the skin and can be painful.
Cysts – the most severe type of spot caused by acne; they are large pus-filled lumps that look similar to boils and carry the greatest risk of causing permanent scarring.
What skin care ingredients will help Acne?
Skincare is a massive factor is the prevention and treatment of acne.
Acneic skin is often caused by dead skin cells in the pores that are not shedding properly. It is important to remove cell build-up in the pores to allow treatment products to penetrate and destroy P. acne bacteria.
Salicylic acid and lactic acid are perfect exfoliating ingredients known to improve acne by unclogging pores.
Another amazing partner to this is Oligopeptide-10, which is antimicrobial and super-boosts the function of salicylic acid.
Acneic skin is also inflammatory so ingredients that are excellent at calming down redness are vital.
Niacinamide (B3) increases ceramides and free fatty acids in the skin, helps to reduce pigmentation and is anti-inflammatory
Hinokitiol is the most powerhouse ingredient – it is anti-inflammatory, fungal, bacterial, oxidant and melanogenic(pigment)
Retinol is an excellent warrior against acne but normalising oil production and increasing cell turnover but be careful what you buy, as this needs recommendation by a qualified advanced skin professional.
Zinc oxide is a mineral sunscreen ingredient that protects against UVA AND UVB, rays known to exacerbate acne.
Lifestyle tips for Acne
Acne reduction needs a 360-degree approach so here’s some tips to start you off:Wash your pillowcases! Or turn daily, if you really want to be careful later them on the pillow and remove one every morning
Wash your make up brushes, maybe even daily! They harbour bacteria and can make it worse. Also opt for mineral make up if you’re getting spots.
Stop touching your face. Only touch with clean hands
Picking can end up damaging the skin, causing infection, inflammation and scarring by pushing it further into the skin. Professional extractions, when done in the right way – can be beneficial to some forms of acne, but this must be carefully assessed on a case-by-case basis. Side note- If you’re going to pick, use a sterile needle and pierce across the top not vertically.
SPF zinc oxide specifically (mineral) will help to protect your skin from UVA and UVB rays that make acne worse. The sun is not good for acne (sorry!)
Ditch the make-up wipes - they disrupt your barrier function upsetting your skin’s balance.
Home remedies – some will clog your skin, others will soothe it mildly, but they are no comparison to the results that can be achieved with clinically proven, cosmeceutical skincare.
Acne and diet
Can chocolate give you spots? Well, erm, sort of, yes!
Sub the Sugar
Sugar spikes blood sugar and insulin levels, which promotes inflammation. Also, sugar can increase sebum (oil) production resulting in more oil for the bacteria to feed off.
Ditch the Dairy!
Not only does dairy contain growth hormones that exacerbate flare ups, but it also contains casein that can be sensitive to some people resulting in the immune system trying to fight the perceived toxin and excess inflammation is produced.
Inflammation = acne!
Don’t believe the LIES!
It is important that I explain not the difference between cosmetic products and those used by advanced skin professionals:
Cosmetic products will barely scratch the surface of any skin condition. They are produced for mass market, which means they are safety tested. They can’t afford to have consumers reacting to them through improper use or carelessly using them incorrectly. They are simple, well marketed products full of ingredients that make them smell and feel good, rather than active ingredients that will make changes to your skin.
A lot of products made for an Acneic skin focus on oil - and guess what? Not all skins are oily that have acne, especially adult Acneic skins. One size does not fit all.
Cosmeceutical or “medical grade” products do what they say they do. They have to gain the classification. They have to have the correct dose at the right molecular weight to be able to do that job they say they can.
Here’s an example:
Vitamin C. If I put a drop of orange juice onto your skin, you will have vitamin c going onto your skin – correct. Vitamin C is anti-inflammatory -correct.
But does that orange juice do your skin any good? No! It doesn’t because it is not the right TYPE of vitamin C in the right DOSE at the right MOLECULAR WEIGHT.
Most skincare does far from “care”. A lot of skincare is made to make money, not to improve the skin.
SO please:
Stop asking google
Stop asking department store sales people who don’t have skin qualifications (they are trained to sell, not to fix your skin)
Stop listening to influencers who get paid to tell you things work when they don’t.
Stop believing the lies
Stop wasting your money
Speak to someone who has made it their job to study the skin, study acne and its science and know how to help you.
Let your skin professional filter out all the lies, marketing blurbs and actually give you real advice based on knowledge, education, and science.
Acne and professional treatments
These are so specific to your skin’s individual needs but in brief some hero treatments are skin peels, LED light therapy, and, when your acne is no longer inflamed, needling.
Your skin professional will create a bespoke treatment plan for you – also one treatment will NOT fix your skin. It is a journey.
Mask-ne
As the name suggests, mask-ne is a type of breakout that results from wearing a face mask. “Mask-ne is acne formed in areas due to friction, pressure, stretching, rubbing or occlusion,” Nazanin Saedi, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Thomas Jefferson University, explains to Health. “You can see it in the areas covered by the mask and also the areas where the mask and face shields touch the skin.”
Back-ne
Yep – It’s acne on your back. It also pops up on chests (especially post waxing). Your back is a hard to reach place and unless your partner loves to lend a hand it’s RIDICULOUSLY hard to give your back a facial. The skin on our backs is extremely thick, so pores can more block easily.
Golden rules to treat BACNE:
Shower off hair products effectively, also shower after sweating
Wear loose-fitting clothes - tight-fitting exercise clothing traps sweat next to skin on the back and blocks pores
If you sleep naked, change your bedding frequently
Don’t have the water too hot – heat encourages oils production and also, we want to reduce inflammation
Stay out of the sun and avoiding tanning beds because damaged skin is more prone to acne – wear a zinc oxide-based SPF that won’t clog pores or just wear a t shirt!
Use a BHA wash such as AlumierMD Acne Clarifying Cleanser
Use a BHA spray such as Ashmira Botanica Purifying Skin Spritz
Exfoliate – Ruff Stuff body scrub is beautiful for skin softening
Apply a blemish gel such as Medik8 Blemish SOS £19 rather than pick
Go for a professional treatment in a salon such as our Purifying Back Treatment
A note on medication for Acne
A doctor or healthcare provider may prescribe oral medication if a person has severe acne, including acne cysts and nodules. Treatment may include:
Antibiotics to kill bacteria and reduce inflammation: sometimes, doctors will prescribe these alongside a topical medication. A person may need to take them for 2 to 6 months.
Birth control pills and other medicines that impact hormones: these can reduce the amount of oil the skin produces but can take 3 to 4 months to take effect. This option, which interrupts ovulation, may not be suitable for young teenage girls.
Isotretinoin: this is a powerful medication that can benefit people for up to 2 years after treatment. It does, however, have the potential to cause side effects – it can harm unborn babies, meaning it is not suitable for women who plan to get pregnant. Before prescribing isotretinoin, doctors may order blood tests and continue to monitor people while they use it.
With some medications, notably isotretinoin, there are also concerns that it can cause depression and suicidal feelings. Isotretinoin can also result in dry skin, particularly around the lips, so a lip moisturizer is recommended. Also, isotretinoin may cause joint pain issues secondary to the drying and decreased lubrication of the joints.” (www.medicalnewstoday.com)
